A dryer that tumbles but doesn’t heat is one of the most common appliance repair calls. The drum spins, the machine runs, but clothes come out damp. There are five likely causes — most are testable and fixable without replacing the dryer.
Related Services: Dryer Repair in Vancouver
Is it a gas dryer or electric dryer?
This matters because the heating components are completely different:
- Electric dryer: Heating element, thermal fuse, thermostats
- Gas dryer: Igniter, flame sensor, gas valve coils, thermal fuse
Check the plug if you’re not sure — electric dryers use a 240V outlet (a large 3-prong or 4-prong plug). Gas dryers use a standard 120V outlet but also have a gas line connection at the back.
5 reasons a dryer won’t heat
1. Blown thermal fuse
This is the most common cause on both gas and electric dryers. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that blows if the dryer overheats. Once blown, it cuts power to the heating circuit — the drum still tumbles, but no heat is generated.
The thermal fuse is usually located on the exhaust duct inside the back of the dryer (on electric dryers, often behind the lower back panel; on gas dryers, typically near the burner assembly). Test it with a multimeter set to continuity. A good fuse shows continuity; a blown fuse reads open (infinite resistance).
Thermal fuses cost $5 to $20. Replacing one is straightforward — disconnect, swap, reconnect. But here’s the important part: find out why it blew before replacing it. Thermal fuses don’t blow randomly — they blow because the dryer overheated. The most common reason is a blocked exhaust duct. If you replace the fuse without clearing the blockage, it will blow again.
2. Clogged dryer vent / blocked exhaust duct
A blocked vent is the most common reason a thermal fuse blows, and it’s also responsible for longer drying times, excess heat, and in severe cases, dryer fires. The blockage is usually lint accumulation inside the duct — particularly at bends and at the exterior vent cap.
Signs your vent is blocked: clothes take more than one cycle to dry, the exterior of the dryer is very hot to the touch, the exterior vent flap doesn’t open fully during operation, or you can smell lint or a burning smell during a cycle.
Disconnect the dryer from the wall duct connection and run it briefly. If it heats without the duct connected, the blockage is in the duct. Clean the duct with a dryer vent cleaning brush kit (available at hardware stores for $20 to $30). For long or complex duct runs, professional duct cleaning is worth the cost.
3. Heating element failure (electric dryers only)
The heating element is a coil of resistance wire inside the dryer that heats when electricity passes through it. Over time, the coil can burn through at a specific point, breaking the circuit. When this happens, no heat is generated.
Test with a multimeter — set to ohms, touch both terminals of the element. A good element reads 8 to 50 ohms depending on the model. Open circuit (infinite resistance) means the element has failed.
Heating element replacement varies by model but typically costs $30 to $80 for the part. Access usually requires removing the front or back panel of the dryer. It’s a reasonable DIY repair on most brands.
4. Igniter or gas valve coils (gas dryers only)
Gas dryers use an igniter to light the gas and flame sensors to verify the flame. When the igniter fails, the gas valve opens but the burner doesn’t light — no heat. When a gas valve coil fails, the valve doesn’t open at all.
Diagnosing a gas igniter failure: the drum tumbles, no heat, and if you watch through the door during startup, you might briefly see the igniter glow red-hot before shutting off without the burner igniting (this is the igniter failing to light the gas before the flame sensor cuts the igniter off). The igniter needs replacement.
Gas valve coil failure: the igniter glows, but gas doesn’t flow. Test the coils with a multimeter — they should show continuity. Coil sets are sold as a kit for $25 to $40 for most brands.
5. Failed thermostat
Dryers have a cycling thermostat (controls the temperature range during normal operation) and a high-limit thermostat (safety cutoff if temperature goes too high). Either can fail. A failed cycling thermostat can cause the dryer to either not heat at all or run too hot (fire risk). Test both with a multimeter for continuity at room temperature.
Gas dryer won’t heat — quick diagnosis guide
- Igniter glows, flame doesn’t light → Igniter or gas valve coils (flame sensor or radiant sensor)
- Igniter doesn’t glow → Check thermal fuse and thermostats
- Nothing happens in the burner area → Gas supply issue, or completely failed igniter circuit
- Intermittent heat → Cycling thermostat failing or drum seal letting cold air in
Electric dryer not heating — quick diagnosis guide
- Drum turns, no heat at all → Check thermal fuse first
- Some heat but weak → One leg of the 240V supply may be out (check breaker), or element partially failed
- Dryer trips breaker → Element or wiring short
- Overheating → Blocked vent, cycling thermostat fault
Dryer not heating after cleaning lint trap — why?
Cleaning the lint trap alone isn’t sufficient for maintaining proper airflow. The full exhaust duct also needs periodic cleaning. If you cleaned the lint trap and the dryer still isn’t heating properly, the duct is the next place to check.
When to call a technician
Replacing a thermal fuse and cleaning the duct are within most DIY skill levels. Heating element replacement is manageable with some mechanical comfort. Gas dryer diagnosis — particularly igniter and valve testing — benefits from professional equipment. If you smell gas at any point during troubleshooting, stop and call the gas company before doing anything else.
Vancouver Appliance Service repairs gas and electric dryers across Metro Vancouver. We carry thermal fuses, heating elements, igniters, and gas valve coils for most major brands and typically complete dryer heating repairs in a single visit.
